The soukh

Its quite interesting how hard it is to find an 'authentic' experience in Dubai—and more than anything it makes one think about the meaning, and value, of authenticity. I think the glossy skyscrapers and dusty mirrored surfaces are probably more authentic than the soukhs —but somehow we connect authenticity to a certain rusticity or 'commonality' and its hard to shift to a conception of authenticity meaning a form of the zeitgeist.

The gold and spice soukhs in Dubai are probably easily reached by car, but for a more 'authentic' experience we took an abra—a pretty great type of old boat similar to a gondola but I presume less precious. Our abra held about 25 people heading up Dubai Creek to the soukhs. We started from the center of Dubai on the Deira side of the Creek—quite possibly the oldest part. It was hot and humid, and we parked near a huge Bollywood movie theater, and made our way through an all-Indian crowd to get to the abra queue.

The soukhs are, well, soukh-ish, and I was struck by how similar they are to back-alley markets all over Asia, with hawkers and touts shouting.

No pictures of the counterfeited-goods stalls (not allowed) hidden upstairs in half-stories above and behind the gold stalls. "GucciFendiChanelLouisVuitton...come with me..."

Dubai Calling

Alas, these aren't the dramatic roadways lined with skyscrapers, or the ostentatious hotels sprawling out of the city along the palm-tree shaped beaches. But Dubai is surreal for more reasons than just wretched excess and questionable architectural bravado.

For example:

1. All sorts of ill-placed, negligible-impact attempts at sustainability—recycling containers adjacent to air conditioned bus stops, on the side of roads clogged with SUVs all day, in the midst of near-empty hotels with pyrotechnic lighting displays and heli-pads. Its almost humorous to see recycling containers in a city that drinks up water and resources in the midst of a desert.

2. The brand new metro is quite beautiful—interesting, maybe even well-detailed organic forms (haven't gotten close enough to really inspect any details), consistent across the system—but the shiny form is coated with a thick layer of sand dust, and there's only one rail line, that noone rides...so far.

3. The speed of building has led to hilarious trip-ups: an ATM built just a bit too high for pretty much any user (even tall ones) had to be retrofitted with a set of steps below it.

China Camp

This is quite amazing—its a window with images of a Chinese junk and a barge painted on it—so that when you're inside if you line up where you're standing so that the waterline matches up with the image painted on the window—its like they're right outside by the pier. Such a simple way of evoking a whole atmosphere. It literally and metaphorically expands your view. All this and more, at China Camp in Marin, barely half an hour away.

Camera Obscura

Color, Texture

Views from Above

Reminding me of ring forts in Ireland...

Lunar-Resonant Streetlights